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PC for BlackHawk

  • blackhawk
  • December 9, 2010 at 11:21 AM
  • icomrade
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    • January 12, 2011 at 10:53 AM
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    • #41

    i wouldn't rule out the screen's psu being a problem yet, try the monitor with another pc, that is if you don't blue screen. however i would check your rams default latencies and force them in your mobo's bios, if none of that works you can try flashing a new bios revision to your gfx card (i do regularly).

    use this to flash: http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/1919…h_2.0.1.13.html

    Bios DB: http://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/

    Be very careful selecting your cards bios, make sure the device ID match your card's values, which you find in CCC by going to product info page.

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  • B-e-t-a
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    575
    • January 12, 2011 at 11:28 AM
    • #42

    There are a lot of possibilities, but I'm pointing out the obvious here. A no-name brand PSU with barely enough juice to power a rig is going to be weak. Thermal efficiency will be below 50%.

    You need at least a Corsiar 500 watt. If you insist on keeping a cheap brand, use a 750 watt cheapo brand. But I still recommend Corsair or similar products.

    *edit*
    Blackhawk, just about any one of these PSU's that are above 500 watt will serve you twice as good as that mystery PSU:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007657%20600037997&IsNodeId=1&name=80%20PLUS%20Certified
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007657%20600038000&IsNodeId=1&name=80%20PLUS%20BRONZE%20Certified

    This is a lesson that nearly all overclockers, benchers, and enthusiasts learn the hard way. Then they end up trying to teach the next generation what they learned, however, the teachers soon learn that PSU stubbornness is something that every noob must inherit and learn the hard way. <-- Even stating this, I doubt you will be convinced.

    The basics of choosing a PSU:
    1) Always choose something that is 80+ certified (gold, bronze, silver, doesn't matter).
    2) Learn the best brands: Seasonic, PCP&C, Corsair, some Antec, some other brands.
    3) Often times, two different brand PSU's will actually have identical internal parts from the same manufacturer. For example, my Antec True Power New 750 watt has the same internals as a Corsair 750 watt and a PCP&C 750 watt. However, the Antec Earthwatts PSU's are the cheap type and only slightly better than the no-name brands.
    4) Always choose a power supply that can have at least 30% or more free power at any given time. If your rig needs 430 watts to run on max load, choose a PSU that can supply 640 watts or more that still fits the above criteria of 80+ certified. The reason is, when a PSU reaches 50% load, the thermal efficiency begins to drop and you can see voltage droop, hotter temperatures, and sometimes excessive voltage. Over time, that PSU will degrade and not be able to supply the full amperage (via voltage droop or reduction in wattage output).

    overclocked and water cooled mang!
    Crysis_signature_by_spiridusumagik.jpg

    Edited once, last by B-e-t-a (July 6, 2015 at 9:38 PM).

  • blackhawk
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    Germany
    • January 12, 2011 at 1:31 PM
    • #43

    @ B-e-t-a lol? PSU noname? lol? my PSU have 500 W and costs 65-70 euros

    @ Evil yes i dont have blue screen. my screen only freeze. if this happens i must restart my pc by pushing the reset button

  • blackhawk
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    • January 12, 2011 at 1:33 PM
    • #44

    @ icomarade i cant download this two things -.-

  • blackhawk
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    • January 12, 2011 at 1:38 PM
    • #45

    when i use both at 5770 in crossfire my fps are at 80 on max settings 1680x1050

  • icomrade
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    • January 12, 2011 at 2:23 PM
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    • #46
    Quote from &quot;blackhawk @ Wed Jan 12

    @ icomarade i cant download this two things -.-


    you don't need to unless you think thats the problem, or you want a bios update for your card. the links work for me.

    Edited once, last by icomrade (July 6, 2015 at 9:38 PM).

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  • blackhawk
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    • January 12, 2011 at 3:44 PM
    • #47

    today i installed older version of catalyst and it worked for 2 houres without freezing, normaly ot freez after 15 min it freez only when i play games

  • blackhawk
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    • January 12, 2011 at 4:21 PM
    • #48

    http://forum.ea.com/eaforum/posts/list/3960/380660.page

    i am not the only one with this problem
    thousands of people have the problem and its not my fault its the mother fucking fault of EA/DICE!!!!!
    they should fix this prolem. this problem exist since BC2 came out

    Fucking EA/DICE

  • NecessaryEvil
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    • January 12, 2011 at 9:06 PM
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    • #49

    Now you think this is a problem with the Battle Company game? I find that hard to believe, as I would think you'd be able to ctrl-alt-delete the game if it was freezing up on you.

    If this happens to you in other games as well, you may be able to rule out your PSU as a potential problem by unplugging one of your video cards (thereby reducing a lot of the draw on your PSU) and seeing if it still freezes up. If it still does, it's probably not the PSU at fault.

    ea3tz7bk4yctbvlst7f.png
    [04:27] CloWn: we are pistol team. lol

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  • blackhawk
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    • January 13, 2011 at 1:37 PM
    • #50

    @ evil read the link that i posted and read some messages and u will see most of them have same problem like me ctrl+alt+delete dont work i cant do anything
    it happens when i use both gafik crads and only one grafik card

  • icomrade
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    • January 13, 2011 at 2:35 PM
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    • #51

    oh if you go to ctrl + alt + del, and the screen just goes black you can still use the arrow keys and enter to select an option, even if the screen is black. i have only had that problem when i overclocked my pc, force stock speeds for ram and the cpu in your bios (if set to auto).

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  • blackhawk
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    • January 13, 2011 at 4:21 PM
    • #52

    guys i think i am going to make a video of my problem

  • B-e-t-a
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    • January 13, 2011 at 8:15 PM
    • #53

    Instead, work some extra hours and buy a PSU.

    btw, I meant to ask, can you list out every memory module you have installed per each slot?

    overclocked and water cooled mang!
    Crysis_signature_by_spiridusumagik.jpg

  • blackhawk
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    • January 14, 2011 at 10:43 AM
    • #54

    i am 13 i cant work^^ PSU isnt fault its bad company all my components of pc only need 430W and i have 500W!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


    what do you mean with module (sorry english not soo good)

  • icomrade
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    • January 14, 2011 at 12:38 PM
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    • #55
    Quote from &quot;blackhawk @ Fri Jan 14

    i am 13 i cant work^^ PSU isnt fault its bad company all my components of pc only need 430W and i have 500W!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


    what do you mean with module (sorry english not soo good)


    he means he wants the model number of each ram stick installed.

    Edited once, last by icomrade (July 6, 2015 at 9:38 PM).

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  • blackhawk
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    • January 14, 2011 at 12:50 PM
    • #56

    ah ok but where can i find the model number?

  • icomrade
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    • January 14, 2011 at 2:32 PM
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    • #57

    it's usually printed on a sticker attached to the stick itself. if not give the guy a call.

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  • blackhawk
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    • January 14, 2011 at 4:08 PM
    • #58

    some guys said i should reinstall system and reset pc to zero i thing i am gonna do this

  • icomrade
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    • January 14, 2011 at 6:59 PM
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    • #59

    define "reset the pc to 0" also doing a format might help, but i still would like to know your memory model numbers, download everest if you cant find them.

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  • B-e-t-a
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    • January 14, 2011 at 9:45 PM
    • #60

    I prefer mprime, but I hear good things about Everest.

    *edit*
    Also I overclocked my first computer when I was about 11, 12, 13 years old. It was an old 486/50. I got it up to 66Mhz and one hot summer day it finally burned up the processor. Sell some action figures and comic books and save up for a PSU.

    overclocked and water cooled mang!
    Crysis_signature_by_spiridusumagik.jpg

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